Nature highlight in the Makgadikgadi

The game reserves of Botswana are known to boast some of the greatest wildlife spectacles on the planet. For most, the lush emerald wetland of the Okavango Delta captures attention for its diversity and concentrations of all creatures great and small.

Or perhaps the Chobe River with its endless fertile floodplains attracting vast herds of elephant, buffalo and hungry predators. These two regions are a must in any safari itinerary through this remarkable country and they are easily accessible, with a wide range of accommodation choices. Then there is something completely different.

Spectacular Makgadikgadi pans

There is another place, located in the Kalahari that is less travelled or understood, but spectacular in its own right: Makgadikgadi Pans. A vast system of salt pans are the remnants of a massive super lake that dried up some 2,000 years ago. During the winter months, there is very little surface water, and the region is a harsh semi-desert home to specially adapted mammals. It’s a dusty, dramatic, and seemingly inhospitable place.

But with the onset of summer rains in November or December, the grasslands explode with growth attracting huge herds of zebra. Some animals may traverse as far as 300km to reach Makgadikgadi. The fertile grasslands provide nourishment and the rains bring seasonal satellite pans in areas away from the salt beds, ensuring palatable fresh water for the animals.

The Southern African wet season

The Southern African wet season normally falls between the months of October and March, with its outer limits being October to April. But like most climatic conditions on the continent, it is often unpredictable or varying. And Botswana is no different.

The country experiences fluctuations in rainfall patterns, necessitating adaptation from residents and policymakers to manage environmental changes sustainably. These fluctuations also create opportunities for the renowned wildlife migrations that define the region.

The black & white migration

Anticipating December rains and the associated grazing, herds are drawn from as far afield as the Chobe National Park where they spend the winter months. As many as 25,000 zebras make the journey south and this dramatic transformation and staggering volumes of zebra create landscapes of black and white stripes on the move. Lion prides, naturally, follow the herds in anticipation. The zebra season here is spectacular, with constant movement day and night, of whinnying sounds and of dramatic dusty stampedes in all directions.

In about March, once freshwater pans are drying and only saltwater remaining, the zebras begin to gather and prepare for the return leg of the epic migration route. Once they returned to the northern Chobe region, they could have covered over 1000km, making this the longest migration in Africa.

There is a second shorter migration route that occurs at a similar time from the Okavango Delta and Moremi Game Reserve in the west. Although slightly smaller with some 15 000 animals on the move, it is nonetheless as spectacular, with so many zebras congregating on the Boteti River.

At permanent water sources such as the Boteti, it is possible to find resident zebra, but once the migrations depart around March, the mood of the Makgadikgadi returns to winter mode. Some resident animals spend the winters. Thats the black-and-white story, and if you thought that was dramatic, wait for the pink part.

Sua Pan’s pink festival

In the far east of the ancient pan system close to a small town called Nata, lies Sua Pan, the deepest of them all. During the rainy season, the water level in Sua may be meters deep and the watery conditions attract vast numbers of shorebirds, waders and waterfowl. It is an avian extravaganza!

But as the levels drop after the rains, Sua is transformed into some of the most beautiful, spectacular, and surprising clouds of pink, and as flocks of up to 10,000 of both greater and lesser flamingos take advantage of the optimal feeding and breeding conditions on the receding muddy pan. Oh, the sight is incredible! Imagine an endless pink sea of a thousand different shades and hues. Add the magic of soft sunset lighting and the result is something quite spectacular.

It is a pan of chaos as the multitude of beautiful birds feed on algae and brine shrimp that have lain dormant beneath the salty crust of the pan in winter. The rains have transformed the pan, seemingly desolate and barren of life in the dry season, into a rich bounty for the flocks of filter feeding flamingo.

The bird’s pink colourations deepen and darken with optimal feeding, and the chaotic breeding rituals and nest building commence. Thousands of conical mud nests are constructed, and Sua Pan becomes the most important breeding ground for both species of flamingo in southern Africa.

There are only two other places where both species breed in such numbers together; Lake Natron in Tanzania, with waters so salty that they are toxic for humans is one such site. Another, somewhat closer to Botswana is the famous Etosha Pan, located within the national park of the same name.

Best time for a flamingo safari

It is normally between March and June that the pink festival occurs, but it is very variable due to the timing and intensity of the rainy season. The best time to visit the colony is therefore difficult to predict ahead of time.

There are specialist flamingo excursions by helicopter that can be arranged from safari camps in the region, and there is a viewing hide at Sua Pan.

Makgadikgadi: Nature's spectacle

As the rain breathes life into the arid landscape of Makgadikgadi Pans, a remarkable transformation unfolds, unveiling a spectacle seldom witnessed. Amidst the ancient salt pans, a flourishing ecosystem emerges, drawing vast herds of zebra and other specially adapted mammals on a journey spanning hundreds of kilometers.

In this seemingly inhospitable terrain, the cycle of life persists, fueled by the nourishing rains and the promise of fresh water from seasonal satellite pans. Makgadikgadi stands as a testament to nature's resilience, offering a glimpse into the interconnected rhythms of the earth and the enduring spirit of adaptation.